"I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list."-Susan Sontag

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Morocco


I have now been to 5 out of 7 continents in the world! This spring break we went to Morocco for the week and had an absolutely amazing time! Its hard to answer when people ask me how my trip was because it really was amazing and something that is hard to talk about and convey how amazing it actually was.

Our week started in Malaga, a city in the south of Spain along the Costa del Sol. We were here to meet the ISA group we were going to Morocco with but decided to go a few days early to relax by the beach. Our hostel was a little far from the city center but it was really cheap and right by the water. There were great beaches with dark sand, lined by vendors and restaurants where we had one of the best lunches (with an adorable waiter). The first night we went to the city center and to a bar (recommended by our waiter) that was filled with locals and had a cool band, that seemed to be having a lot of fun (even though I had no idea what they were singing about). The second day we got up and spent a full day laying by the sand and that evening sipping drinks at the restaurants. We made dinner in our hostel that night and took a nap for a few hours before meeting the Morocco group at 5am. Well it was actually more like 4am because daylight savings hit us that night.

Out of the hostel and onto the bus and ready for the adventure ahead. First we have a good 12+ hours on a bus and ferry. Waiting for us on the bus were all of the other kids from the ISA Madrid, Valencia, & Salamanca programs who took the bus from Madrid (another 8+ hours!). We drove about two hours and transfered to the ferry that took across across the straight of Gibraltar to Ceuta, a Spanish city attached to Morocco. Through the city to the boarder we waited a good hour in the bus in the heat as they checked all our passports. Pass the boarder we stopped at a rest stop restaurant where most of the group got their first culture shock with toilets that consisted of only holes in the ground and unknown Moroccan food. At this point I wasn't sure what to eat either so my lunch consisted of the cereal bars I had brought. As we waited to get back on the bus there were a group of Moroccan kids that were watching us so some of the boys ended up playing hackie sack with them, one of the first interactions we had with the Moroccan locals.

Many hours later we got to the hotel in Fes, the first city we were going to be staying in. Adrianne, and I walked around the area outside our hotel for a little. From a story we read by a girl who had taken the moroccan trip previously we were under the impression that the moroccan boys weren't big on hitting on girls but that proved wrong as we received a lot of attention. After avoiding an invitation to tea and a trip to a boy's hotel in the desert we headed back to the hotel for dinner. I wasn't too sure what Moroccan food was but I ended up really enjoying it. Mostly chicken, rice, couscous, and vegetables. Good deserts and fruit. This dinner, as well as most, we were sat at tables as we arrived so we got a good mix of the different ISA groups, from this we met some cool people, but it was clear ISA Barcelona has a bad rap and we were seen as the partiers and not serious about learning spanish or school in general. Despite all this we knew we had the most fun and the 15 of us Barcelonians proved it throughout the trip.

Day two we met for the tour of Fes city. This made for a long day but was really exciting. We first started at what I think I remember as the royal gates. Large brass doors that made for great photographs. After we headed to the Medina, an ancient part of the city lined with shops with foods and goods. Barely streets, they were small alleyways crowded with people and made hectic by men on donkeys and pushing carts. The day soon turned into shopping day. The guides we were with were dirty old men one of who had to be at least 60 and made sexual comments to all of the girls... ooo cultural differences! So basically the guides took us to their friends shops... all of which I'm sure we were getting ripped off a bit but they had good stuff we we weren't disappointed.

The first stop was a carpet store that was a co op of hundreds of different carpet weavers. The manager of the shop was a pretty good salesman and made us all believe we needed carpets. They gave us all tea, called Moroccan Whisky that was delicious. After hearing the prices I was soon brought back to reality and realized a Moroccan carpet is something I would have to invest in after I made my millions. Here I spent most of my time on the roof of the place which had an amazing view of the city and the Medina, as well as the surrounding hills. A lot of people did some good bartering and got some good carpets however. I am a little jealous but I think i will wait and get a cheap carpet at Target. After the carpet store we headed to a pharmacy herbal store where more good salesmen talked to us and I believed I needed to buy everything they had! Here I bought a lot of good spices and teas (Moroccan whisky), as well as makeups and body oils. After, we headed to lunch through a small door in a random alley which opened up to an awesome restaurant, with more family style moroccan food. Everything was delicious and free so I loved it.

After lunch we were right back to the shopping. And more winding around the Medina to get to the shops. There were a lot of vendors badgering us to buy stuff. It has hard having to be flat out rude to the people to have they go away, but if you weren't they were impossible to get to go away. Some of the men excited by american women were happy to throw out compliments, and at one point I was offered a thousand camels (I'm assuming for marriage, glad I'm worth that?). The next shop we were in was a leather shop, which at the top we had a view of where they prepped and dyed the leather. This smelt rancid so they gave us mint leaved to hold to our noses so it would be bearable. A man working at the leather shop told us about the process and then took us down to the store to shop! I was able to resist buying anything here as were most of us due to the prices. There were some sweet leather short shorts I had my eye on though!

Next stop a scarf/cotton store where they showed us how to tie turbans. Here I spent a good amount of money on scarves and got a good beach shirt for the summer. Final stop for the day was a pottery factory were we saw them shape and fire pottery as well as paint, then taken to the show room to shop. Here I resisted shopping as well due to the fact I was out of money by now. After shopping we headed back to the hotel for dinner and had another good Moroccan dinner, but at this time the food was starting to seem awfully familiar. After dinner we went to a Moroccan folklore show which had drummers, magicians, belly dancers, and a few other entertainers, we drank more tea and had some delicious cookies.

The next morning we got back on the busses for another 8+ hour trip to the desert! There were some amazing views of all different climates. After a long drive without a stop, the directors had us stop to go to the bathroom at an old closed dow rest stop, which meant no bathrooms. There were a lot of complaints but people soon got over it and were able to find some area to squat. Eventually we made it to an Oasis a few hours from the desert where we stopped for lunch another typical Moroccan meal but delicious still. Back on the busses we finally made it to where we were going to take the 4x4 jeeps to the dunes! We split up into groups and Sarah, Lauren, Adrianne, Whitney, Bianca, and I hopped into a Jeep and sped into the desert. Half way there we stopped with the other Jeeps to watch the sunrise then back in the Jeeps to our campsite. For a while we were separated from the other jeeps and it was kind of creepy but soon we ended up at the camp.

We watched the moon rise up at the dunes as some local boys started to show up. Throughout the rest of the time in the desert we met a lot of the local people. They were very eager to talk and hand out with us and most of them spoke Spanish and some English that they learned from all the tourists. We had dinner in a large dinner tent later that night and after dinner we they had some music and we all danced for a bit then headed to the tents to sleep.

The next day we had a full day out in the dunes. In the morning we were up for the sunrise. Completely groggy and congested I hiked the dunes to watch the sunrise then we played around a bit as the locals tried to sell us stuff. Then we had a delicious breakfast where they gave us these moroccan donut type things as well as some other pastries and jellies and cheeses. After breakfast and some time to play in the sand we got on camels and trekked through the dunes. Sarah and I were first sharing a camel but when we were too much weight for the little guy we ended up getting our own. I stayed on the camel we originally had and named him Nimbus 2000. He was sweet. After a short trek we were at one of the biggest dunes we could see and got off the camels to hike up it. The hike only took about 5 minutes but it really showed how out of shape we all were as the moroccan boys literally took our hands and pulled us up the dune. At the top we had amazing views and relaxed a bit as we regained our energy, up at the top we met some sandboarders who were on a tour and they let a few people in our group use their boards to play around in the sand. Heading back down the dune one of the boys grabbed my hand and we ran down, I'm still surprised i didn't trip and roll.

Back on the camels, this time I was riding with a new friend Al, we headed to the town where they lead us to more shopping! First we stopped at a convenience store where we bought sweets that we gave to the local children, who seemed absolutely thrilled to have the luxury of sugar! Then we walked a bit and ended up at another rug and jewelry shop. While I tried to convince the man to sell me what was quoted as a 100 euro jewelry box for 10 euro... (and getting him down to 60 but not having any money), we sipped more Moroccan whisky and talked to some of the local kids outside the store. After the store we headed back to camp hiking probably about a mile through the dunes. Back at camp we relaxed a bit. We were all filled with sand at this point but embraced the fact we were camping and skipped the showers. Soon an old lady and her daughter came to camp to offer us henna tattoos. I got one on my foot but got impatient waiting for it to dry and after playing in the sand it is very light.

For the rest of the afternoon we hung out in the dunes with a large group of local boys. Working on my spanish they were excited to talk with us and that we were so excited to talk to them. After most of them claimed us as their various girl friends and we ran around in the sand playing with the younger boys, one of them, who was wearing a Harry Potter shirt, offered me a ride on his motor bike. One of my more memorable experiences in the desert, also the scariest given i rode the bike without shoes or a legitimate seat.

After time in the dunes we went for dinner and had another delicious meal followed by live entertainment by a band. On one of their intermissions ISA Barcelona took the stage and one of our own did some freestyle raps as others played drums and keyboard. Many of the other ISA programs rolled their eyes at us but the other tourists staying at the camp as well as our ISA directors got a kick out of it. We danced late into the night and the band even busted out some bob marley.

The next morning back in the Jeeps, then back on the busses for another 8+ hour ride to a town called Meknes. On the way we stopped at a random rode side to give items of food and clothing so some of the nomadic moroccans who needed help. Arriving at the hotel we were all excited to have a proper shower and bathroom. Had a delicious dinner of pasta and chicken (a nice change from the usual) and passed out after dinner. Although Adrianne and I had trouble falling asleep because our bathroom light had a mind of its own and kept turning on on its own. Early morning we got up and back in the busses for the long trip back to Malaga Spain. Even with all the bus driving it was barely noticeable with all the amazing experiences we had during the time we were experiencing the moroccan life.

In the 12 hours after arriving into Spain till our flight back to Barcelona, Lauren, Sarah and I, in an effort to save a little money and not miss a flight, spent about 4 hours in a tapas restaurant sipping on wine, eating tapas, while watching the semana santa easter parade march by. With the graphic crucifixion floats, as well as the people marching in what looked like KKK cloaks and hoods (i forgot the name but after googleing them at the restaurant we discovered they were a catholic symbol, but what the KKK got their outfits from) as well as dramatic drums it made for an intiresting atmosphere. From here we caught a cab to the airport (around 1am) and found a nice spot on the ground for us to sleep for the night. It was a rough cold night and I now have a new respect for the homeless but now that it is over it wasnt that bad. Sleeping the whole flight home, as well as passing out for the entire day back in Barcelona I eventually recovered and finally found time to write this blog! More to come soon about the week before spring break as well as my few days back in Barcelona at the end of break. Also, Paris next weekend!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-wLkNxgeKc
Video by Whitney Johnson. Watch it to SEE what I'm talking about!

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